No, I don't want to go for coffee.

Delhi is a mixed bag. I'm amazed and in love with the colours and life, but I am overwhelmed and frustrated at times by the pushiness of the people and the noise/traffic. The drivers seem to drive straight down the middle of two lanes, so as to be able to choose one or the other at a moment's notice. It's really more like an organic being, than an ordered experience of driving. It's amazing the small spaces vehicles can fit into.

Yesterday I spent the morning walking and getting more and more frustrated as I was approached by more and more touts/rickshaw drivers, who were pretty bold and persistent. So, I ducked into the underground (best thing ever) and discovered that the first car of metro trains is only for women. Obviously gets rid of the objectification, but also they're way less crowded, so you can often sit. I had a lovely talk with a woman who pointed me in the direction of an area of town that locals shop for clothes. She told me what I was wearing was fine, but I figured it couldn't hurt (I'd read that people are more courteous if you're wearing local clothing). I do love all the bright beautiful colours everyone wears.

This area of town was much less pushy, and I managed to get outfitted with a scarf, pair of pants and two tops, Indian style. Feeling confident, $20 poorer, but armed with the knowledge that I looked (somewhat) like a local, I returned to the old city area.

Apparently, I still have the same kind of overly friendly touts, but now I also have everyone else. I think while wandering around the Red Fort I had between 10 and 15 groups of people come up and ask to have their pictures taken with me. Kids, couples, families, groups of friends, men, it didn't matter. I pulled one woman (women are crucial in travel--they're so much more helpful) aside and asked her if I was wearing something wrong, or what was going on, and she said I looked fine, that it wasn't to do with my clothes, then giggled. Hmmm. The two answers I managed to get from people were 1. it's the custom here, and 2. maybe it is because you are "U.S.A" and they think you are a movie star. Sigh. There must have been over 30 pictures with me and others together, and then I quite regularly caught out of the corner of my eye other people, less brave, taking pictures from afar. At least it meant I met some locals, because some of them deigned to talk to me for awhile before asking if they could take my picture.

The Red Fort itself was impressive. It's a walled area in Old Delhi built in the 17th century. It's adjacent to the Yamuna River, and is a tiny piece of quiet (except for the photoshoot) in the hustle and bustle of Old Delhi. There's only a small retail area, which is actually quite cute--through the arched entranceway.

Old Delhi itself reminded me of Diagon Alley from Harry Potter. Yes, I did just refer to Harry Potter. Buildings are crooked, alleys are narrow and winding, and there are wires everywhere.  I got hit by a waterballoon to the back, and a few supersoakers, as kids start practicing for Holi. Thankfully it was not coloured yet. I did see a few smiling pink and blue faces, with telltale signs of early festivities.

 So tonight I'm off on a sleeper bus to Varanasi for Holi. I thought it might be slightly less crazy, as it's a very holy/cultural place, and thus might be slightly manageable? A cop out, for sure . . . but perhaps smart, also, as clearly I'm standing out as a single foreign female. Regardless, India is an experience, and I am determined to get as much out of it as I can.