Day two in Cappadocia: Exploring the underground

Day two, my compatriots had decided to go dawn air ballooning. I, in a fit of romanticism, decided to save air ballooning for another day . . . thinking that it might be nice to have a few things up my sleeve to look forward to. But, nobody said I couldn't get up and watch, so at 5:15am my alarm went off, and I was off trekking up the hill to find a good location to hopefully watch my friends come over the horizon, bringing the morning sun with them. Three large stray dogs decided to accompany me, and I warily enjoyed their presence, so long as they kept their distance.  Not only did my friends arrive (I presume--it was hard to see more than large patterns on the balloons) . . . but dozens of balloons filled the sky, lit pink with early morning rays. Mount Erciyes also looked beautiful, pale purple in the distance.

After sitting on the hilltop, enjoying the dawn, I decided to go back to the fancy hotel, have a bubble bath and a nap before my friends arrived back for breakfast. This is definitely the most swanky place I've stayed in so far, and probably will stay in for many years. Cut into the hillside, it was partially cave dwelling and partially beautiful new hotel designed to match the stone of the original portions. With a massive bed, and dark wood furniture, all to myself, I felt like a princess. I even wore those ridiculous slippers you get.

After my friends returned, and we had a lovely breakfast on the terrace, we had more sightseeing to do. With only two days to pack all of this into, there was very little time to just sit, so breakfast was pretty special. And we were off, exploring a valley that had been used for raising pigeons. The pigeon houses are cut into the rock faces in massive numbers, and were raised as a source of food and fertilizer. Some roosts are still maintained, but with the rise of mass production of chemical fertilizers, many have since been abandoned. The hike was lovely, although a little hot, and with the sky an incredible blue, there were beautiful contrasts against the rock outcrops. As usual, we stopped for tea, sitting under the shade of a rock wall, on beautifully coloured cushions.

After exploring the outside, it was on to my favourite experience in Cappadocia. The underground cities. While talked about as cities, they were actually most likely used as short-term (a month?) shelters during moments of invasion, warfare, and strife. Passageways twisted and turned, and the only link to above ground were these narrow vertical shafts, aerating the vast network of tunnels. The "city" that we went to was called Kaymakli, and our guide informed us that it is probable that the Hittites first dug out caves here at about 1200BC. However, our lovely guide tended to talk in couched terms, using "in my opinion" far more often than made me comfortable. Perhaps something to read up on. There was some consensus on the main use and time period of these caves, however, being used by Christians to escape the Arab invasions in the 7th and 8th centuries.

On our tour we went down four levels of chambers and tunnels before re-emerging. There are 8 floors dug into the ground, but tourists only have access to the top four. We got to see living quarters, cooking areas, storage rooms, an air shaft, and many many passageways. Katie, Michelle, and I enjoyed being the young'uns on this tour (unusual for us these days), and may or may not have gotten into "trouble" for being slow, wandering off, giggling, and taking too many pictures. The tour was a mite frustrating at this stage, because I would have enjoyed spending much more time at this location, and felt quite rushed and constrained by the group. Recommendation: do this tour on your own, or with a private tour guide who can give you the personalized experience you wish for.

As usual, on the way out of a tour, they lead you past the shops. One last opportunity to buy scarfs or jewellery or carvings or those ever-present Turkish Evil Eyes (they call them this, but they're really to ward off evil spirits, however they kind of creep me out). There was even an Evil Eye tree.

One last look out over the city, and we were finished with our tour and off to the airport.

And then we were on the plane, whirlwind over. Back to France for me, and on to the States for my friends. What a great trip. Thanks, Katie and Michelle (and Steve!).

ps. Skaar, have you emailed that hot air balloon guide yet? :)

Exploring Cappadocia with former residents of 806C.

After Mandy and Figo's lovely wedding, I joined Katie and Michelle in a two-day adventure exploring Cappadocia. The three of us are a good trio . . . at some time each of us lived in 806c in Eastern Market in DC, and they both went to High School with Mandy in Minnesota. Michelle's dad runs a travel agency, so suffice to say we got a great deal on a tour (thanks, Steve!). My first legitimate tour on this trip, it was nice to leave all of the sticky details in another's hands.

On arrival, it was go go go. We got a taste of the amazing rock formations, Katie "riding the camel" and then we were off wandering around the fairy chimneys, which look more like mushrooms to me.

 We toured a pottery-making family business, and got to try our hand at throwing a pot (although highly supervised). There was even a little sing-a-long/dance party with some of the workers. I toyed with not leaving, and staying to learn the family business. They gave me their card and told me if I wanted to come back and work with them (starting as someone who coloured in others' designs), I was more than welcome. Hmmmm.

We then went off to another area cut into the hillsides with a plethora of ancient churches and dwellings. The early christian cave art was really interesting to see. Unfortunately there will be no photographs of those here, as in order to preserve the paintings, no photography was allowed.

And, leaving the tour for the night, we went and explored the city around where we were staying, climbing a hill to look out over a beautiful sunset, while sipping our cups of tea.

There also may have been a little clowning around.

Mandy and Figo! Wedding Hoorah!

While my previous posts may have left you with the impression that I was wandering around Turkey aimlessly as a tourist, the whole purpose of my visit was to see two amazing friends get married. Or at least have a Turkish wedding celebration with all of Figo's family and friends, as their official signing of documents will be in Minnesota this October.

Figo's family was so welcoming. The whole experience only confirmed my findings of Turkish people being unbelievably kind and hospitable. Around twelve of us made the trip out to Turkey, mostly Mandy's Minnesotan friends, and then a couple from DC. A bus had been organized to take us out to Sizir, Figo's parents' village. 

 When we arrived, almost the first thing that happened is that the women of the family took Mandy into a celebratory dancing circle around a tree. A few minutes later, all of us girls were dancing, and having a blast. This lasted quite some time. And there were drums involved. Fantastic.

We also were taken on a tour of the sites of Sizir, including a beautiful waterfall, and a Salmon hatchery.

On arrival back at the house, we had wonderful wonderful food, seated all together as the foreign contingent, I believe.

Then we spent the better part of the remaining daylight sitting under a mulberry bush, getting to know Figo's family, and playing with the kids. Every-so-often the men in the group would sneak off with the brothers and uncles and drink . . . leaving us girls to hang with the womenfolk. Mandy was radiant and relaxed. I love the general feeling of the day, and how Mandy and Figo and the family on got dressed up right before leaving the daytime party.

Figo's family were so lovely, and we were so at home with them, it couldn't have been a more happy and tranquil afternoon. Sitting in the shade, watching the sun go lower in the sky.

Here's one of Figo and the ladies, after he got all dressed up. I do love that tie.

And then it was time for the wedding ceremony. Mandy and Figo quietly put on their wedding rings (which we'd helped to pick out the day before), and walked out of the house together, getting into the decorated car. We all took pictures, then piled into other cars and the bus and followed them in a noisy procession around Sizir, honking and alerting all of the neighbours to the wedding party.

The procession ended at the local school, where there were 300 Turks, the 11 Americans, and me. Dance party all night long was the plan. So, dance we did. Mandy and Figo walked down the stars to exploding white fireworks, and danced their first dance together. And Figo has some moves--don't let him tell you otherwise. Next time I'm in DC, we're all going dancing, and that man is joining us. Then, in the majority, it was hours of circle dancing (much fun) interspersed intermittently with the two American songs that they had included in the lineup for our benefit, I think. Such a lovely night.

The only thing that would have distinguished this from the weddings you are used to, would be the style of dancing and dress, and a tradition of adorning the bride with gold coins, to help them get started out in life. The names of the gift givers and the amounts are read out and noted, so as to provide a record for reciprocation down the line when other marriages occur.

Figo looked a little trepidatious cutting the massive multi-tiered cake, but much happier eating it.

And that was the end of a lovely lovely night. Thank you Mandy and Figo for letting us share in your beautiful day. So glad I was able to be there, and I can't wait to see you in the years to come. You'd better believe I'm coming to visit if you ever end up living in Istanbul! Mmm. . .  Lahmacun.