Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Montpellier, ma belle ville.

I arrived here through a series of serendipitous events. People ask me why I chose Montpellier, and really I like to say it chose me. Regardless of how it happened, here I am. I have a French address . . . and have done for over two months now.

Montpellier, situated 10 kilometres from the Mediterranean Sea, is a university town with a history. Established at the end of the 10th century as a trading centre, the city began to flourish. The faculty of Medicine was created in 1180AD. The students originally didn't have classrooms, and met in a square to hear lectures (a square which still exists, and one can go to have a coffee and sit pretending to do homework while pondering the vast history of this interesting town). The university itself was officially established a few decades after. The climate is pretty fabulous, and has a mean temperature of 7.1 °C (44.8 °F) in January to 23.4 °C (74.1 °F) in July. I'll take that.


The heart of Montpellier centres around La Place de la Comédie. Here, facing the grand theatre/opera house, you can find street performers, places to eat and drink, and people to mingle with.




In the center of La Place de la Comédie there is a beautiful fountain that is a reproduction of the sculpture/fountain The Three Graces, which was originally situated there starting in 1790. And a merry-go-round which I almost never see people riding, but adds to the slightly other-worldly feel of this interesting square.



My neighbourhood is the closest I could have gotten to a French version of Eastern Market. It is called Beaux Arts. Within a four block radius I have the market, two tram stops, the post office, a hair dressers, 2 bakeries, about 15 epiceries (tiny grocery stores), a cheese shop, a butchers, a fish shop, and then for restaurants I can find French, Japanese, Thai, Indian, pizza, sandwiches, and numerous others I haven't tried or explored. I also have a place I can go to for dance lessons, or the local gym. And to make it even better, it is cute and old and French.



Just two minutes away is the old city, on the hill from which the name Montpellier comes.  Here you can find numerous winding narrow streets, designed that way to minimise the wind tunnel effects of the strong Mistral winds, and to increase shadows to act as natural air conditioning systems. Oh urban planners of the past, I respect you.









The school of medicine is in the former monastery building.


Next to the school of medicine is Les Jardins des Plantes. A shout out and thank you to Rosemary, as this is one of my favourite places . . . and a great suggestion of hers. The gardens were created in the 16th century to aid with medical research. In the summertime there are evening lectures there, and I went to one really interesting one highlighting plants used in Japanese cuisine. But the thing I like best is how people use the space differently. Studying, strolling, drawing, I even came across one musician strolling up and down one of the paths practicing his clarinet. Obviously the tiny apartments that you find in these French cities are not very conducive to practicing instruments.







Around the town, there is tons and tons of graffiti and street art. Some of the graffiti is an eye sore, but much appears to have been commissioned. Most stores have what looks like a garage door that they can pull down over the front at night, and almost all of these have beautifully designed pictures spray painted onto them. This makes navigation for me somewhat difficult, as from day to night the streetscape changes immensely. There are also quite a number of murals, and a few that use trompe-l'oeil or the effects of deception to make you think something is there which isn't really. Montpellier is also one of the cities graced by mosaics created by the street artist, Invader. So throughout the town you can see little Space Invader characters happily peering out from their lookouts on street corners.







My favourite hang out is the bistro, Chez Felix. Each Wednesday and Sunday nights you can find the band Hippocampus Jass Gang here. They play 30s jazz/swing music, with a variety of instruments (contrebass, guitar, washboard/spoons, banjo, clarinet, trumpet and violin). The second half of the night brings the local swing dancers out of the woodwork, and the ambiance is relaxed and happy. I like to think they give the music a French twist, but many of the songs are American and have me missing the Second String Band from DC . . . a different style of music, but the same happy feeling, and my DC fave. Inspired by this, I have started swing classes. So hopefully before my time here is up, I will be out there on the dance floor myself.




My apartment itself is wonderful. I live with Luc (French), and formerly Jeanette (Norwegian) . . . with a terrace for my hammock and a room of my own, it's all I could want, except for perhaps a stove, gah! However, I have made some pretty fantastic homemade pizzas in a frying pan--who knew that was possible, and, Banoffee Pie doesn't require an oven, so we're sweet.







Come visit! I'd love to show you around.


Saturday, October 1, 2011

Bee Farm Wedding

Well. First of all, I was a bit of an idiot when planning this trip. In order to economize and pay less for train tickets I cut everything a little fine.

Getting up at 6:00am in Montpellier, I biked to the train station, ready for my train at 7:30. I took the train from Montpellier to Toulouse, waited an hour for my train from Toulouse to Pamiers, and finally arrived in Pamiers at 11:50am. I then had 3 hours to bike 24 kilometers, set up my tent, shower, put on my makeup, bike 9 more kilometers, and arrive at the wedding (which started at 3pm). I arrived at the farm at 2:58pm... shaking (and sweating) from the effort. Took off my yellow reflector vest, and I was already to go.

The day of the wedding was beautiful, and as a group, the wedding party processed up the street in Tréziers to the Mairie, surrounding Dany and Stéphanie, and their family.



There were about 100 of us in attendance, and we all tried to cram into the smallest mayor's office ever . . . which meant that I ended up watching and taking pictures of the people around me rather than the actual marriage, because I couldn't see a thing. However, there was a lot of love in the audience for the family. . . and it was lovely to see.



What a beautiful family!




From there, we mingled around in the street for awhile, then headed back to the farm. It was lovely to catch up with Alan and meet Mélanie, his girlfriend. . . . and of course chat with Louna, Manon, and Dany and Stéphanie when I could steal time with them. The wedding goers were from all walks of life, and the colours to see were beautiful.




On arrival at the farm, was a spectacle to behold. There was a beautiful fabric feature in the air . . .


Activity stands were set up around the property. You could go to the kid's corner were they had a storyteller. . .


There were others napping in their own adult's corner . . .

You could play petanque . . .


Or the game Mölkky . . . I love this game! I was too busy playing when it was going on to take pictures, but these are the pieces for the game . . .

Another area was set up for the French game, Palet. . .

And other things I didn't take pictures of. . . there was an icecream stand set up with organic pear and peach ice cream, inside there was an instructor teaching all of the traditional French dances from this region, and there was even a circus area set up with juggling balls, frisbees, and other fun things to play with. This was my kind of wedding for sure--definitely a family that appreciates games!


As the evening got later, we had amazing organic snacks and a meal.




There were performances for the happy couple, a singing group that performed songs, some original (with words especially for the bride and groom).




There was a talent show including piano pieces, other singers, a guitar piece, and one particularly memorable hula hoop show.


The day became night, and we migrated inside. Manon and a friend did a clarinet/beat poetry session, and one extremely talented friend did a mime performance, bringing participants from the audience in to be his miming orchestra as he conducted. Then we spent the evening dancing traditional french dances (I'm terrible--I never take pictures of the dancing, because I'm too busy participating).


There were also a few nice touches throughout the day/night . . . a well-wishers tree, that you could write poetry or messages to the family on. And a candy jar, where you could take a piece of candy, and a piece of paper, and write a poem, a piece of life advice, a joke, or a game on, wrap it up, for the family to enjoy later on.


Definitely a lot of thought went into this day--by the family, but also by their wonderful friends.

At 1:30am it was time for me to leave the party and the dancing, and cycle in the dark back to where I set up my tent. To bed at 2am, my alarm woke me four and a half hours later to get up and cycle the 24 miles back to Pamiers . . . avoid having a heart attack or falling off of my bicycle when a scary yelling woman came out of the corn fields with a gun (she was following hounds, and hunting foxes, I think?). . . and arrive with a half hour to spare, then begin the train trips back to Montpellier. What a weekend. Thank you to Dany, Stéphanie, Manon, and Louna for a wonderful wonderful day! And congratulations!!!