Thursday, March 1, 2012

Du Vin Chaud

One thing that Europeans do very well is Christmas Markets. Montpellier was no exception, however not on the level of those found in and around Berlin or some of the other locations I visited. This post is long overdue (as I speak, it's 20 degrees celsius/70 degrees fahrenheit, and the first of March), but that's what you get when you're off doing other things.

Our Christmas market was based in La  Place de la Comédie. Being the South of France, it still wasn't that cold here in Montpellier, so they simulated coldness by using white and blue coloured lighting (they needed to wait until early February for the two-week spell of Siberian temperatures!).


For several weeks, the thing to do around here was to meet up with friends, drink mulled wine (vin chaud) and wander around the market . . . snacking on all of the wonderful food options and running into other people in and about the temporary log cabins set up in the square.




Friday, February 10, 2012

Weird Moments in France

Having just passed the one-year mark for this journey, and finding myself in increasingly random situations, I decided to reflect on a few of the strangest moments in France. And here they go, in no particular order . . .
  • Sitting in a car with three 19-20 year old french boys, as we listen to LMFAO, and they literally create a rave in the car--with flashing lights and dancing (as much as humanly possible) and beatboxing, going from Lyon to Montpellier (300km). When they weren't raving, they were rapping their own lyrics on the fly, or creating a faux quiz show about a particular type of bread. I haven't laughed that much in a long time, but I still have no idea what was going on. Merci Rudy, Maxime et Clément pour la vraiment bizarre soirée--Vous, les gars, êtes ridicules... mais c'était extrêmement drôle.
  • Meeting Georg at the youth hostel in Montpellier, and having him organise my life within 2 hours of knowing him. Thanks for choosing my French city, university course, forcing me to own a phone (to the point where you gave one to me), and letting me stay with you for the first week here in Montpellier :) And not to mention indulging me in figuring out how to cook pizza (both frozen and from scratch) in a frying pan. Tu es le meilleur, Georg!

  • Going to a community hall with two french friends for a Karaoke night that ended up being predominantly for retired people, and singing oldies George Brassens songs in French with an accompanying guitar player. There may be video evidence of this one. Je te blâme, Olivier. Et merci à toi, Fanny, pour ne pas faire un demi-tour :) C'était une bonne soirée.
  • I've already written about this--but it remains one of the more random situations I've been in. Cycling into Cateau Cambrésis for the day and sitting at an outside table at a restaurant for lunch, I bonded with the people sitting at the table next to me as we ran around trying to collect my maps that were flying everywhere in the blustery winds. In the next ten minutes, in a combination of French and English we got to know each other, and by the end I had a piece of paper in hand with their address, and instructions of how to get to their home. They, having been married just the day before, invited me to stay with them and their family for the night. As they were leaving I had to run after them to find out what their first names were. Talk about hospitality. Merci à tous--Maité, Benjamin, Corinne, et Marcel-André! Il était le meilleur accueil  à la France!
  • Any and all of the language moments when afterwards I know I've told someone something ridiculous, or understood something ridiculous . . . 
    •   "Tu as besoin de souris" instead of "tu as besoin de sourire" . . . or "you need a mouse" instead of "you need to smile." Désolée David! Et c'est vrai, il possède une souris! Et un grand sourire.
    • "Au début, j'étais trop timide, maintenant, je suis ok avec mes gaufres en français" instead of "Au début, j'étais trop timide, maintenant, je suis ok avec mes gaffes en français" . . . or "At first I was too shy, now I'm ok with my waffles in French" instead of
      "At first I was too shy, now I'm ok with my blunders in French
      " (this one was particularly ironic). Celui-ci était à la ferme des abeilles dans Tréziers. Stephanie a eu un bon rire hors de cette phrase :) Merci à tous!
    • Thinking the hiking club was going flamenco dancing, when in fact they were going to eat a type of pizza called Flammekueche. Merci Frøydis pour l'invitation à joindre la groupe, et Pauline, merci pour l'explication.
    • "Tom, il pleut" . . . instead of "Tom, il pleure" . . . or "Tom, he's raining" instead of "Tom, he's crying" Tom est anglais, par conséquent, il comprend ce type de situation. N'est-ce pas, Tom?
    • Using google translate on emails I don't understand and coming back with phrases like: "it stands in the juice (sock!)" . . . and having to respond.  "On se tient au jus (de chaussette!)" . . . is a doubly hard phrase . . . se tenir au jus is essentially to keep someone in the loop . . . jus (juice) is doubling for electricity, or current--keep someone current . . . and the "de chaussette" addition at the end is a joke about a weak/bad coffee--yup, this is what I have to deal with. Merci beaucoup, Karine :)
    • Spending half an hour trying to pronounce feuille and fouille with several different groups of people. Désolée, Benoît de continuer à blesser tes oreilles avec mon accent. Et merci d'avoir essayé :) Merci également à l'ensemble des équipes de frisbee (l'Université et le Club sur plusieurs occasions), et particulièrement Karine, pour essayer de réparer mon "mignon" accent anglais.
  • The Fête des Lumières in Beaux Arts that didn't seem to have any lights (Fête des Lumières means Festival of the Lights). But, what it did have was a 15-20 person band that milled around in the crowd, playing anything from the Cranberries to old French songs, wearing the most bizarre getups I've seen--including a faux leather red jumpsuit, zebra sports jacket, and any number of jacked up christmas decoration lights (these being the only real lights we saw). I have no idea how they started each song, as at any given time there were several musicians drinking wine from the bottle, texting, smoking, dancing, or sitting, all looking in different directions--we even saw the saxophonist smoke while playing. I think the highlight was when one took a bag full of feathers and dumped them all over the crowd, for no clear reason. Merci encore Georg, pour danser avec moi dans la rue!



  • Performing Molière in French, using a postmodern polyphonic technique (as in no defined character roles) and abstract acting, all performed by people from different foreign countries . . . resulting in absolutely no-one in the audience understanding what was going on.  Merci Tianna, Vanessa, Amanda, Shuko, et Yasmin. J'ai effectivement eu un temps merveilleux dans cette classe. Surtout merci à Tianna qui m'a aidé à mémoriser mes lignes!

  • And who could forget my first job in France--sitting drawing with Sarah Connell on the seaside when a father and daughter came up and offered us a bottle of wine for me to draw their house. Or carrying my bicycle up (Sarah) and down (me) five flights of a circular staircase in a tiny apartment building on l'Ile de la Cité in Paris.  Tu me manques, Sarah! 
  • My brother (this isn't really in France, but was during my time here) trying to coerce me into singing a duet with him of the Potato/Potahto song at Deutche Opera House in Berlin for a concert for my parent's 40th wedding anniversary. All of the other performers were professional musicians. And to top it off, having him call excitedly to tell me that he was going to try track down Dietrich Fischer-Dieskau (the famous German baritone) to attend, as he is one of my dad's favourite singers. Thank you Andrew for not making me do it! Maybe we can do this sometime in the future in a less entirely terrifying situation for me.
But all in all, the random, lovely, bizarre, terrifying situations have made this year what it is. I have three months left in France (at least on this visa--maybe they'll take me back someday) and I'm trying not to squander any of it.

Bisous à tous,
Mary

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Thanksgiving in London and Speed-Tourism

Well, as it's the best holiday ever invented (in its current evolutionary phase--I entirely agree with anyone who wants to talk about indigenous rights), I wanted to spend Thanksgiving amongst friends. Tell me if you can think of anything bad about feeling thankful, cooking, eating, drinking, friends, family, singing, games, more eating, and napping. Impossible. So with that in mind, I decided to hop the ditch and spend my thanksgiving (yes, I know this blog is hopelessly out of date) with Sarah Galbraith and contingent. Unfortunately the trip was incredibly short, so I decided to make it simple and not try to catch up with all of the other lovely people in London--that will have to wait until May/June when I return next.


On arrival, I couldn't help but sing The Wombles on the train.


And then we were off for my first London pub--and some snooker playing amongst the hippest of hipsters. Wow, there were some great woolen jerseys in that dive.

The next 24 hours were full of Thanksgiving goodness. Markets for fresh ingredients, cooking, organizing the apartment to fit more people than it should . . .




The meal itself was amazing. Turkey, two types of stuffing (one with haggis), mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, apple/blueberry sauce, numerous roast vegetables, various salads, pies and cakes galore. The English contingent pulled out all of the stops. 



The night continued on into singing and music and laughter, until I fell asleep somewhat mid-sentence. Standard.

The next day was absolutely beautiful and sunny, and we went riding our bikes all over, ending up at Derek and Laura's place for pancakes and blueberries. It was awesome to meet Achilles Renoir--what a cool wee man. We also went for a wander in Hampstead Heath, catching up on the last few years of events, and kicking leaves. Unfortunately, I left my camera at home, so you'll have to take me at my word. It was a picture-perfect endorsement for moving to London--hmmm.

My last full day in London was spent attempting to fit in a variety of tourist-centered attractions in a haphazardly browsing fashion. I started out with my atlas and compass in hand, and headed for the South bank of the Thames. I tracked down a Banksy . . . covered in plexiglass it gives food for thought--is this how street art should be treated? On the one hand, it's worth a ton of money intact, and as is can be protected from further tagging and artworks. On the other, the nature of street art is ephemeral and often politically or socially motivated and pertinent to a moment in time, rather than preservation through the ages. Thoughts?


I also saw a series of these characters . . . which I thought were incredibly emotive, encircling a worksite. Looked like they were possibly commissioned.

I then trolled the bridges . . . Tower, London, Southwark, Millenium (which looks fabulously like a spine), Blackfriars, and Waterloo.




I spent several hours at the Tate Modern. As usual, dreaming of all the artworks and projects I could do.

In wandering about London, I was intrigued and excited by the juxtaposition and layering of different epochs and styles of architecture and art. What an interesting city.


With the light fading, I suddenly realised that my version of hitting the tourist spots didn't really fulfill the norm, and that I'd at least like to catch a glimpse of some of the more famous landmarks, so I speed-walked my way about, getting in the new Globe Theatre, Big Ben, The Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace and its famous guards, Trafalgar Square, a double-decker, a red telephone box, and a heartbeat's worth of the British Museum (which only fueled fire to my desire to return). . . all in just a few hours of severe ADHD.








And then I returned to the real-world, the London I was there to see . . . spending another lovely evening with Sarah and Brendan.

In the morning, we frequented the local tea shop--I promise I'll always remember to let you have the front section of the paper first, Brendan. I cede it to you for all eternity.  Look at that look he's giving me--it's just daring me to try for it. Also, the perspective in this shot is a *little* off, but yes, he is an extremely tall, lovable Scotsman, and Sarah is quite the compact model.

Thank you all for a lovely time. And you entirely succeeded in making me think very very seriously about London as a next sedentary location for this wandering minstrel.

Oh the decisions to be made . . .


Thursday, November 17, 2011

French Frisbee Lesson

Frisbee is amazing. French frisbee is even better.



For all of you out there who have not tried Ultimate Frisbee, it's time. I have played a lot of sports over the years (soccer, basketball, netball, tennis, swimming, diving, waterpolo, rowing, roller hockey, ice skating, ballet, swing dancing, hand dancing, salsa dancing, gymnastics, trampolining, yoga, rock climbing, ultimate frisbee, and kickball are the ones that come to mind) . . . of these, only Ultimate Frisbee has been consistently fun and happy.




There is no referee, and there is a system for adjudicating disputes. Each team I've played for has welcomed new people who don't know how to play. And at the end of the game, it's most likely that in some countries you'll sing the other team a goofy song to say thank you for the game, play a short children's game, or in others, you'll sit down and talk about everything the other team did that was great. It's like living with Mr. Rogers, but less creepy. And after that, you're more than likely to go out for beer or ice cream.


Here in France, I've joined the Montpellier Lez Héraultimates team. It's a mix of levels, and they do actual practices (a new thing for me, this practicing). I've gone with them to Bordeaux for a tournament, and another to Palavas to the beach. This weekend we're off to an indoor tournament somewhere near to Avignon.




And if you're also in the mood to mix it up, why not attempt to play in French. Here is some vocabulary to keep you on your toes. All the best . . . et en jeu.

L'Ultimate                   Ultimate

les règles                     the rules
le match                      the game
les équipes                  the teams
un équipier                  a teammate
les joueurs/joueuses    the players
le défenseur                 the defender
receveur                      receiver
remplaçant                   substitute
souliers à crampons    cleets/boots

un pied pivot               pivot foot
le revers                      the backhand
le coup droit               the forehand
le renversé                  the hammer
un appel                      a call (people use this to describe a cut)

validation                    check disc
contrôle                       check feet

le terrain                      the field
le sol                            the ground/dirt
les limites                    the boundaries
la zone                         the zone
le but de jeu                the end line
les lines                       the lines
le disque                      the disk
le force                        the force

en jou                          disc in
envoyer le disque        to send the disc
lancer long                  to huck
réceptionner                to receive
intercepter                   to intercept
passe arrière                dump
changement                 switch
comptant                     stalling
attraper le disque         to catch the disc
marquer                       to mark
marquer un point         to score
faute                            foul


Monday, November 14, 2011

More rugby than I've ever watched in my life.

So, as a football/soccer kid, I grew up with an irrational dislike for rugby. That, and the fact that our entire country goes entirely insane over All Blacks matches and regional games alike meant that I never really paid much attention to the game.

Being here in France, in one of the big rugby cities, during the Coupe du Monde . . . I had to represent New Zealand, and represent I did.

For the pool games, I watched with my flatmate Luc, or with friends. There were even New Zealand pancakes to be had.




One particular match I watched out of the back of a car before a frisbee tournament. . .


For the final, there was more on the line. I invited a group of friends to come to a local Irish bar with me to watch the game, and return afterwards for food, games, and festivities.


There were half a dozen or so of us watching the game at the bar, and then 20 or so for the celebrations (9:30am being a little early for most on the weekend).

Luc and I went all face painted up . . . 


The bar had about 4 New Zealand supporters and 300 French. It was a little hard to be heard.

For awhile there the French were pretty excited and thinking they were going to be victorious (while I bit my fingernails).

They even sent around a rooster at celebratory moments. Calls of Allez Les Bleus resounded around the bar.

In then end, the whole thing was pretty civil. The French clapped both teams at the end of the game, and I got sprayed with champagne by Georg and Laura. My voice did not return to normal for three days, and I was briefly worried that I'd permanently damaged it.

While I'm not going to be a rugby follower, I feel more able to appreciate it. Since these games I've even gone to the local stadium and watched Montpellier play live. Who knew.

Go the All Blacks!